I am visiting Jerusalem for the second time in a few weeks. What I noticed the first time was the heavy presence of the Ethiopian Christians (Wikipedia says they held "certain rights" to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher). Meanwhile, I'm like "Hey! Where are the Presbyterians?". To really dig into the history of Jerusalem, one must begin to understand Eastern Christianity (much of your account of the 12 disciples leads there, actually), and National Geographic once said that at the time of the Crusades, 60% of the Middle East was Christian (it helps also that I have an Armenian g.f., who helps educate me on these fronts). Temple mount is apparently closed to us now, but they've added an "Underground Jerusalem" tour. A complex scene, I need to read up on the twelve disciples to help me understand all that I'm seeing, your account is a great start!